Julie Bourgeois - TATA CHRISTIANE
"Take more quiet time for yourself and your loved ones."
small-shops: Can you tell us a little bit about your background? How did you get into fashion and what was your thought process when starting your own brand?
Julie Bourgeois: In parallel to my studies of Literature and Philosophy in Marseille and Paris, I trained as a self-taught clothing designer. I did several internships in costume workshops in Paris and in particular with a Parisian designer. My first steps as a designer were made thanks to crochet work. I developed small lines of crochet accessories that I was able to sell in Japan for three seasons. But I really created the label Tata Christiane when I arrived in Berlin. I started with unique pieces. Then a store in Tokyo discovered me and allowed me to start producing custom collections as well, becoming my main distributor. I've been running my label Tata Christiane for over 10 years now, always learning something new.
small-shops: Your fashion is loud, colourful and extraordinary lively. How do you get inspired to design such outstanding pieces of art?
Julie Bourgeois: I can't really say exactly where my inspiration comes from. I think one of the big sources comes from my childhood in Marseille. But like a lot of people it comes from life, from reading, from shows, from curiosity for a variety of different things, from observation. It's very diffuse. But I think that one of the main engines is the different fabrics, their material and their color. I have a sensory and intuitive approach rather than a conceptual one.
small-shops: You create two collections a year. Additionally, you do unique, collectors’ items. How do they differ in the production process?
Julie Bourgeois: The seasonal collections need to be more streamlined in the process because I have to take over the production afterwards. I produce almost everything myself in the studio in Berlin. I have to keep in mind a good balance between an expressive, deep and rich collection and a rationalized production in terms of working time, material resources as well as wholesale price. For one-off pieces I am much freer because I don't have to think about this rationalization: I can make pieces that take much longer to make, a lot of handwork, I can work with untracked fabrics in small quantities and also recycle leftovers from seasonal collections, and create new combinations. I also like the idea of unique pieces because each piece is very special and original in the literal sense. The process is also very circular.
small-shops: Where do you get your materials from?
Julie Bourgeois: I source my raw materials in different ways: the fabrics we print ourselves come from a partner based in Holland, who has a very good selection of fabrics from the circular textile industry.
The fabric is printed digital with GOTS inks. Digital printing is the most environmental friendly way of printing at the moment.
We also work with suppliers of unprinted fabric based on their existing stock to avoid excessive production.
For the unique pieces, first we recycle the left over of our seasonal production. I also look for fabrics on the markets, also vintage fabrics, sometimes I find vintage pieces that I rework and reintroduce in the unique pieces.
small-shops: What measures do you take to be a sustainable, slow fashion brand?
Julie Bourgeois: My label's model is based on in-house production, collaborations with selected European partners who are also conscious and pro-active to participate in a more sustainable industry. Recycling fabrics, reducing waste, producing very small stocks and on order.
small-shops: How have you been spending your time during the corona lockdowns?
Julie Bourgeois: Since I work alone in my studio and I can walk there, I was able to work. In April 2020 I also made fabric masks at cost and also free. I also developed my online shop. And also as many of us, I was reflecting on myself and on my work.
small-shops: Life for everyone was drastically changed and people had the opportunity to think over old behaviours. Did you learn anything during this very special times? What are some goals for your future?
Julie Bourgeois: One of the habits that appeared to me to be too much: too many small trips for work that after reflection must be totally rethought and reduced. Take more quiet time for yourself and your loved ones. I also realized that small models like mine have much more value and legitimacy, because their model is on a human scale and offers a very diverse range of services that contribute to the richness of the world and not its impoverishment (economically but also spiritually).