Aurelia Paumelle
*"I find that knowing how to create and make something with your own hands is very rewarding and useful for personal confidence and imaginary development."
small-shops: Before coming to Berlin, you had the privilege to work with well-known designers such as Vanessa Bruno, Sonia, Rykiel, Balenciaga, John Galliano and Yves St Laurent. Can you share some important values you learned during that period?
Aurelia Paumelle: This period is a key period in my career, because I learned everything, I had the chance to work during the collection period in different fashion houses where I learned techniques and styles that each house practices. I also worked for Christian Lacroix's costumes at the Opera Garnier but also worked in a fast fashion company in Le Sentier, those who know Paris will understand:) All these experiences have made me feel more confident and have given me a broad spectrum of knowledge from industry to haute couture. Also I must say that I learned discipline, patience and precision in my work.
small-shops: You started your own label almost 10 years ago, with a men’s T-Shirt line. During this long time, you developed a respectable brand. Which of your many professional achievements are you most proud of?
Aurelia Paumelle: I can't tell you what I'm most proud of because I've been creating this brand organically on my own since 2011. I felt in 2010 that I had to evolve and that the system in which I was in the fashion house collection periods did not suit me anymore. I needed to create, express myself and find my own way to achieve what I felt was the right thing to offer to people about fashion. When you work in Paris, we talk about prestige, luxury, hierarchy and all that didn't suit me anymore. So if I have to answer your question I will say that what I am most proud of is to have created my vision, my style and to propose it. Fashion that speaks to people who are not in magazines, that is elegant and comfortable with beautiful materials and a cut that harmonizes and beautifies the body, whether it is male or female. I like the idea that people feel good in my clothes all times, whether they are going to work, staying at home or going out.That's what makes me happy and proud, to bring beauty and self-confidence also to be able to receive them in my shop with my energy and ethics is a wonderful chance.
small-shops: You are a Berliner with roots in Paris. How would you describe the differences in fashion in those two cities?
Aurelia Paumelle: I left Paris a long time ago, and I am originally from Normandy. I have always found Paris to be a difficult city to integrate and the social pressure was just as difficult for me. I stayed there for 10 years and I am grateful for this period but never again. Berlin gave me the opportunity to be myself and to focus on the essential, my personality and individuality and not just my looks and the people I should know to advance my career. Fashion in Paris is fast moving and very elitist, you have to do a lot or be very good if you are not lucky enough to already belong to this milieu. Competition, stress and jealousy are part of your daily bread. No thanks, I'm not hungry anymore :)
small-shops: Most of your products are made of Parisian dead-stock fabrics. How do you choose which of the materials to use for your collections?
Aurelia Paumelle: It's a nice moment, twice a year I go specially to Paris to buy fabrics for my collections. The people I work with know me and know what kind of material I like to work with. Also as you said I buy the end of series of the collections and this creates an extra excitement of knowing how rare the product will be, which adds a lot of value for me. I am talking about small production series and of unique pieces and the customers know this and that is why often the pieces they buy from me become their favourite pieces because they are the only ones to have it. And for me what a joy it is to be able to work regularly with new materials of exceptional quality and always different.
small-shops: Over the past years you collaborated with famous Electronic Music DJ’s like Paul Kalkbrenner, Pan Pot, Richie Hawtin and Carl Craig. In which ways do those people and music in general influence your designs?
Aurelia Paumelle: I've always been fascinated by electronic music and in Paris I frequented artists, producers, I went regularly to listen to their live and Dj sets which really inspired me. When I arrived in Berlin and started my own clothing line, I made a t-shirt that I gave to a Dj friend who came to play at Panorama Bar. The t-shirt was a success and I had the confidence to make others and present them to other artist friends who told their own artist friends about it. At that time I was also very attracted by collections all in black, mysterious and dark. I always work with artists, I love this fusion, this collaboration. I also create unique pieces for some of them, there are not only musicians but also painters, comedians. I love to collaborate, it gives me a lot of joy and a beautiful complicity.
small-shops: Could you explain a little bit how you are producing sustainable fashion?
Aurelia Paumelle: First of all my brand is gender neutral and seasonless. I design and manufacture in my workshop-boutique in Prenzlauer Berg. The realisation is in 3 steps: pattern making, cutting and sewing. Sometimes I work with a seamstress when I can't make. As said before, the materials are dead-stock which I process for my collections in small series. My activity is mainly local, I welcome customers in the shop, it's not just a business relationship, we develop more because my customers know the quality and rarity of the pieces and also know that they can keep them for a very long time due to their quality and comfortable and elegant style. they are perfect to wear in everyday life. they are 3meless and designed to fit every situation day-to-day. I also do small services to make sure that the garments fit perfectly and I provide an after-sales service with no end date.
small-shops: How have you been spending your time during the corona lockdowns?
Aurelia Paumelle: At the very beginning I was scared because I had just moved into my new shop in Prenzlauer Berg, before I had a shop for 5 years in Neukölln. People in the neighbourhood didn't know me yet and we had to close, what a stress! So I developed my online shop, I was able to work on projects that I had put aside and above all I set up a meeting with local designers once a month in my shop where we present local and regional products. This event is based on tasting and introduction. I also offer my walls to artists. I give the opportunity to have a visibility to those who don't have one during an afternoon-evening. These are always beautiful moments, to create a community and to make the small shops in the neighbourhood come alive has become very important for me. We also have a newsletter where people interested by our activities can sign up to receive our future events or present themselves to be part of them. During the 2nd lockdown, I worked a lot on unique pieces, I wanted to have them worn by local artists and personalities before presenting them in the shop for sale. I teamed up with a photographer and we shot in my shop with the corona rules well respected. It was a very nice experience and the result is fantastic, it will be visible on the networks.
small-shops: You just posted your first video tutorial on how to upcycle. We think this is an awesome idea. Do you plan on posting more of those and if so, what other things can you imagine to educate people about?
Aurelia Paumelle: Exactly how to help, to educate people with my skills. I find that knowing how to create and make something with your own hands is very rewarding and useful for personal confidence and imaginary development. When you have knowledge of the technique you feel freer to express your creativity. Of course, not everyone wants to be a fashion designer, but to know how to make small things that can be useful in your daily life, like a bag, or shortening your trousers, transforming a shirt that is too big from your grandmother to wear instead of throwing it away. I also like the idea of downcycling, with old clothes you can create a useful piece for the house like a carpet. As well I like the idea of second hand shopping and knowing how to make small corrections necessary to make the clothes look perfect on you. I would be happy to create an interactive afternoon workshop at my shop where people could come with their clothes to be altered and learn how to do it. And for those who don't live in Berlin, I think that setting up tutorials with specific themes or with a specific request from a candidate could be a great adventure. Like the example given before: how to touch up my grandmother's old shirt that I love so much but is too big for me. All this is possible but I will need help with the videos, that I don't know how to do!
small-shops: If you could change one little thing in the fashion world, what would it be?
Aurelia Paumelle: The total cessation of animal for use in fashion.